A double rainbow arced around the bucking bronco statue out front of the Boomtown Casino. /Photo by Rhonda Lane

This house is all about horse-power, but different kinds.

My husband was part of the team that built the first amateur-built rocket to reach outer space. The CSXT rocket made its historic flight on May 17, 2004. Part of the avionics section, the “brains” of the rocket with its recording equipment, was built in our basement and garage.

In 2008, we went to watch the space shuttle Endeavor launch. That’s when we also went to see Arabian Nights.

In early October, we went to BALLS 20 out in the remote Black Rock Desert of Nevada for the launch of large experimental rockets.

But never fear. I kept an eye out for horsey things along the way, like that above photo of the bucking bronco statue at the Boomtown Casino outside Reno.

BTW, the sculpture is titled “Attitude Adjustment” by cowboy and wildlife artist Austin Barton. Click on the link over his name to see more photos of his horse sculptures.

Where’s the rest??

A silver saddle made by Hollywood craftsman Edward H. Bohlin/Photo by Rhonda Lane

Reno was our “staging area” where our airline flights ended and originated and where we picked up supplies for our trip out to the desert.  The launch sites on Black Rock Desert were more than 100 miles away from Reno. The closest WalMart to our eventual destination was an hour and a half away.

We had arrival dinner Friday night at the Boomtown Casino. On the way to the buffet, we spotted this “Million Dollar Saddle,” sterling silver-decorated parade saddle made by Edward H. Bohlin.

Truth is, I wondered where the rest of it was – the bridle, the breastplate and maybe even the serape. Wasn’t the saddle part of a set, at least with a decorated bridle? Click on this link and scroll down to see the difference between a plain western saddle and a western parade saddle. All that other tack would bear sterling silver decoration, too.

Here’s a photo of Bohlin with his own personal parade saddle, sort of a “lite” kit by comparison to the full-boat sets I’ve seen, and it still has a decorated bridle and breast plate.

That’s why I wondered, where’s the rest?

A plaque said that the saddle at Boomtown had been owned by stuntman and character double Lucky Carson.

Literally, the middle of nowhere

Technically, we went to the Black Rock Desert playa, a 200-square mile dry lake bed for much of the year. If you’ve seen car commercials with the vehicle speeding along on flat dry tan mud with distant black hills, you’ve seen the Black Rock Desert playa. (FWIW, the Bonneville Salt Flats are white.)

The Black Rock Desert may sound familiar to you because it’s the site of the annual Burning Man Festival over Labor Day week. After artists transform the flat dry mud lake bed into a city of 50,000 people with art displays and parties, volunteer crews spend more than a month afterward cleaning up any trace.

To give you an idea of how big the Burning Man area is, here’s a link to the Burning Man blog which most recently featured posts about the cleanup. Note the date – a month after Burning Man, and a few days after the BALLS 20 event.

If we hadn’t had longitude and latitude co-ordinates to the BALLS launch site, we wouldn’t have found it, even with its 300 people, including trucks, campers and airplanes.

Playa rules

Imagine you’re in a little boat in the middle of a big lake with your friends. You know there are four piers where you can exit the sea, except you can’t see them from anywhere on the lake. There are no exit signs.  You can see land from the middle of the lake, so you think, no problem, just sail along the shore because you’ll run into a pier sooner or later. Except the shoreline is perilous and help is more than an hour away.

All that is true of going out on the Black Rock Desert playa, a dry lakebed. (Why, yes – as a matter of fact, playa is the Spanish word for beach.) The playa’s edges are rimmed with sticky mud, leftovers from the winter and spring when the whole thing is mud.  Four roads take explorers on and off. Actually, you only have three roads because the first road is down at the south end, at a lower elevation, where the ground can be boggy. Want to take a risk anyway? Tow trucks about about an hour and a half away. Happy trails, y’all.

Your only hope of getting back to the main road is a GPS unit with longitude and latitude. Just be sure to mark the way point as soon as you leave the pavement. Seriously.

And then there’s the afternoon sandstorm that can obliterate visibility, coat anything it touches and sting bare skin. Shorts seem like a good idea in the morning, until the winds kick up in the afternoon.

A skimpy Burning Man costume might be risky – or work as clever organic dermabrasion.

CSXT: from basements and garages to the Nevada desert to space

From about 2001 to 2004, my husband worked with the Civilian Space Exploration Team, led by energetic visionary and former stuntman Ky Michaelson, who launched the first amateur-built rocket into space. Teams all over the US built portions of the CSXT rockets and then met out on the playa for days at a time to set up the rockets for launch.

They worked in relentless heat, dust, porta-potties and even an 70 mph sandstorm. They slept in a motel that makes the No-Tell Motel look like the Four Seasons, and some awoke with a start because suburban dudes had never heard speeding freight trains howl by through the night.

Eric Knight’s book THE NEW RACE TO SPACE goes into a lot of detail about what happened at during those workshop days. Rocket schematics used to hang on the laundry room door.

Some of us from the CT portion of the CSXT avionics team thought attending BALLS 20, held on the playa near where they’d assembled then launched the rockets, would be great fun. I, for one, hadn’t seen the area, which I’d heard so much about.

Once the isolation of the area sank in, I was amazed they could accomplish any high-tech pioneering in an area that reportedly claimed a still-intact Conestoga wagon bogged down for a century in the sticky playa mud.

From workers to spectators: the flight line at BALLS 20

Funny, this was where everyone hung out at a safe distance from where the rockets went up, but we still called it the “flight line.” Here’s a video I shot as we walked the area soon after arriving in the morning.

If you can’t see the embedded video of the flight line of BALLS 20, click here.

Our group from CSXT had a great time because none of us was under any pressure to produce for once. We were total spectators. Those of us who worked in the desert seven or so years ago recognized the excitement and jitters of the folks launching rockets that day.

None of the BALLS 20 rockets reached space. However, one rocket built by a team led by Derek Deville made it to 121,000 feet and, even better, documented most of its journey with multiple cameras, all the way up and all the way down.

Click on this link to see a short version of all the video that team got, some from up past thin air. If you’re interested, here’s the long version of all video edited together from this spectacular launch which also gives you a bit of perspective about what all goes behind the scenes.

When the sandstorm kicked up around noon, we spectators left the playa for lunch at Bruno’s Country Club and Casino.

Bruno's of Gerlach in the morning light/Photo by Rhonda Lane

After lunch, on our way back to the playa, the sandstorm still clouded visibility too much to launch more rockets, so we headed for Planet X Pottery.

An oasis

Planet X is nestled in a grove of cottonwood trees not far from the playa. Smaller older buildings include artist’s studios and pottery for sale.

The exterior of a gallery at Planet X Pottery

I’m going to regret blabbing this, because the day will come when I’ll want to stay here and all y’all will have it all booked up, but there’s a little vacation apartment to rent at Planet X. Just keep in mind that the website photos don’t do it justice. Frankly, it would make a great spot for a writer’s retreat for a small critique group. Cook up some Jiffy Pop on the stove then take it out to munch while gazing at the stars …

As much as I’ve gone on about the isolation and the realities of humans-surviving-in-the-desert, I found great peace and beauty there. The shifting light on the mountains throughout the day washed the ridges in different pastels. Zooming along down the playa with three cars abreast was great fun. (Okay. Not so fun when we drove into the sandstorm. But we turned around and got out.)

My only regret is that our evenings there came with slightly overcast skies, so I didn’t get to see the stars.

Anyway, I couldn’t let this post end without a photo of one of the friendly quadraped residents of Planet X.

"Do you have my dinner?"/Photo by Rhonda Lane

 

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Waiting for his souvenirs to arrive/Photo by Laitho/iStockphoto

I had just finished a tour of the Thoroughbred Center, when the guide inquired about my plans for my final  day in Kentucky.

I told her that one mission for the final day was dropping off my various and sundry purchases at a packing and shipping store, a last-day ritual for years. That’s how I’d ship home purchases and even seasonal clothing from various trips.

She then suggested I go to the post office to get the “If It Fits, It Ships” boxes. Otherwise known as Priority Mail Flat Rate boxes.

I picked up some packing tape and a marker pen, then asked my portable nav system to direct me to the nearest post office.

The boxes were free. While still parked in front of the Versailles, KY, post office, I used the open trunk of my rental car as a packing table. I filled any gaps inside the box with clothing to ship home.

I taped the boxes closed, printed out my home address (yes, the return address and shipping address were the same). Then, I took them to the post office counter. That’s when I paid the flat rate and shipped them off to Yankeeland.

The boxes weren’t too heavy for me to lift, no matter how many books I stuffed inside.  Plus, they arrived home safely and economically.

Problem solved.

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I know - you don't see any books in the picture. But there are plenty of horse souvenirs in Kentucky, including horse books. Gift shop in Louisville airport. October 2009/Photo by Rhonda Lane

Some of the sturdiest, easy-to-pack souvenirs are books. Unless you go overboard and buy too many, but I wouldn’t know anything about that.

When you go to the 2010 Alltech FEI World Equestrian Games (or any other event in Kentucky), you’ll be able to find equestrian gifts galore at the Kentucky Horse Park, the venue for the 2010 WEG.

However, if you’d like to get around the area a bit, you’d probably like to know where to go. Especially to find unusual horse books.

Please keep in mind that things can change, especially within a year, which was the last time I was in Kentucky.

Also keep in mind that I’m mentioning these places because I’ve had good luck shopping there. In other words, no one is compensating me for mentioning their establishment here.

The Kentucky Horse Park gift shop

The horse park gift shop is a wonder to behold, and the same goes for its book section. You can find anything horse- or even Kentucky-related there. If you must shop for the non-horsey, the KHP gift shop also sells collectibles, tees and bourbon candies.

If you can only visit one shop for your equestrian souvenir needs and you’re at the horse park anyway, you won’t leave this gift shop empty-handed.

However, if you’re a notorious bookworm like I am, you might be interested in casting a wider net. Hidden treasures await, just a short drive away. Or, as is the case of our next bookseller, a short walk away.

American Saddlebred Museum gift shop

Take a short walk around the parking lot from the big iron gates to the saddlebred museum. It’s one of those small museums where you can take a Griswolds-at-The-Louvre tour or dive deep into the history of saddlebred culture. (I would have embedded the video from National Lampoon’s European Vacation, except YouTube wouldn’t let me.)

Even if you know nothing about saddlebreds but are a history buff, you’ll find a diverting hour or so there.

Anyway, the gift shop bookshelves have saddlebred-related books you won’t find anywhere else. Some books are from small presses and others are out-of-print.

Joseph-Beth Bookseller

Joseph-Beth Lexington is a destination in itself.  For me, it’s almost another “must visit,” like the horse park. Once I go, I have trouble leaving.

The Kentucky section and horse books will keep you busy. Although there’s a large horse racing and handicapping section, Joseph-Beth’s horse books section isn’t just about racing thoroughbreds. Many breeds are represented in the selections. Be sure to browse the store because horse-related items can be found on the remainder tables and the end-caps — that is, the sales tables around the store and those displays at the end of a shelf unit, respectively.

And don’t forget to look through the periodical section for horse magazines. When you get hungry or thirsty, the cafe can handle lunch or dinner (the meal most Kentuckians refer to as “supper.”) The cafe is more like a creative casual restaurant. Yes, you can get coffee and pastries and, if I recall correctly, you might be able to have a glass of wine.

Joseph Beth’s is also in the same plaza as Whole Foods Market, which offers a carry-out buffet, along with some indoor dining room tables and some outdoor cafe tables.

Here’s the deal – I’ve been around the US, and I’ve shopped in a lot of bookstores. The Joseph-Beth in Lexington is one of the best.

Keeneland gift shop

A great spot for racing-related books is the gift shop at Keeneland, which is open year-round.  The book section moves around the shop. Usually, it’s toward the back up the short flight stairs. Sometimes, the book shelves offer more than others.

If you’re not planning a trip to the races, you might enjoy a visit the gift shop during the less-crowded times. The Fall 2010 meet starts on the first weekend of the 2010 WEG, on Oct. 8.

The front office of Old Friends. Also the entrance to the gift shop/Photo by Rhonda Lane

Old Friends gift shop
Georgetown, KY

Out in Georgetown, between the horse park and downtown Lexington, is Old Friends, the retirement center for horses.

The building where you check in for tours includes a gift shop that mostly features merchandise relating to the farm’s present and past retirees. Check the resident roster in case one of your favorite horses is or has been there.

This is also a racing-centric book venue, but you’ll find books about other breeds here, too. Last year, I bought a children’s book about Friesians. You might find a unique surprise on the book shelves here. And the proceeds here go to help the retirees.

The Kentucky Derby Museum
Churchill Downs
Lousiville

On my last trip to Kentucky in 2009, the museum on the grounds of Churchill Downs was closed due to flood damage. And so was the gift shop.

That said, the Kentucky Derby Museum is open again. If you’re into racing at all, the Derby Museum is a must-see, as is a pilgrimage to Churchill Downs.

So, if you’re into the rich history accompanying the Derby or dreaming about throwing a Derby party of your own, you’ll find books that will feed those needs.

A note about buying horse books in Kentucky

Especially at Joseph-Beth’s, the saddlebred museum, Keeneland and Old Friends, I’ve found obscure books that were either self-published or published by small presses liable to be ignored by national chain stores.

Some of my favorite obscure Kentucky book finds have included

• the self-published memoirs of an equine vet
• a book about Woodford County horse farms
• a son’s memoirs of his father’s horse show experiences as an African-American saddlebred trainer in the mid-20th century
• the sources behind the names of race horses

Do you know of any great places to buy books – especially horse books – in Kentucky? Let us know in the comments section below.

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See where you can stand to watch racehorses train? Close enough to feel the thunder of passing hooves. At Lexington's Thoroughbred Center on Paris Pike/Photo by Rhonda Lane

While I was leaving a lengthy blog comment on Discover WEG with Fran Jurga, I realized I could be talking about that stuff here, too.

Don’t get me wrong – I love this Discover Horses blog about the upcoming World Equestrian Games.  I plan to visit regularly (brace yourself, Fran). She thinks of things I don’t, and she finds great stuff that slips below my radar.

But I’m an expat Kentuckian who goes back to play tourist. I can also offer some cool, helpful tips and insights on seeing Kentucky.

But, despite the timeliness of the World Equestrian Games being just around the corner, I’ve been oddly quiet about sharing what I know about having been a tourist in Kentucky.

Keep reading to see why and to pick up the first in a series of Kentucky tourist tips.

Outing myself

I know there’ll be the devil to pay when a lot of people back home read this, but I go back to Kentucky every once in a while to do horse-related things.

Those times when I do go back to visit people? Horse things get squeezed out. The thing is? I really need to do those horse things.

Check out this article I wrote for the Kentucky business magazine “The Lane Report” (no relation to me) to see what going to Kentucky means to me. It’s a mental health thing.

If I don’t make at least one full day visit to the Kentucky Horse Park when I’m within the state lines, I get itchy and resentful.

Adding to my usual KY trip time-crunch are the research trips. My book is set in Kentucky among a bunch of walking horse farms. Even though I grew up on the walking horse circuit, many things have changed since then, so I try to stay up-to-date and informed enough to be balanced about what I depict on the page.

So, while I’m in Kentucky,  I may fit in a weekend at a walking horse show. During the week, I like to schmooze in the barns with the staff and watch them work.  I get great stuff by just spending time hanging out.  That way, I’m around for various procedures, like floating teeth, shoeing, collecting semen and working the horses.

As you can see, when I’m in Kentucky, I have a lot I want to do and need to accomplish.

Only in Kentucky

There is no place like Kentucky for visitors to enjoy horse stuff, up close and personal. Yes, I do want to go to Ocala. And to middle Tennessee. And go back to the Fort Worth area with horse-centric travel in mind. And, yes, if you’re a regular reader here, you know that I’ve been to Saratoga Springs and enjoy it.

But nowhere else but Kentucky celebrates the horse so much – and invites visitors to join in the fun with as many options as can be found within an hour’s drive.

And, if I’m wrong about that, feel free to let me know in the Comments section below.

Kentucky Tourist Tip – horse farm tour maps

Go read Fran’s post and read through the comments – and then come back.

Yes, do pick up a Kentucky map from your local AAA, but I’ve never gotten one from AAA with the horse farms marked. You’ll have to pick that up in Kentucky.

I got mine in a Wal-Mart. (You can see a section of my map below.) The maps are available from other merchants, but you will have to buy them once you arrive in the state. And keep in mind that all the Kentucky maps you see won’t have the horse farms marked.

Before I forget, please keep in mind that you shouldn’t pull up to a horse farm’s gate and ask for a tour. Frankly, decades ago, you could, but not any more. Cutting back on drop-in visitors is reportedly one of the reasons why the horse park was created.

After all, working horse farms are businesses. These days, like many other businesses, I’m guessing they’ve been subject to staff cuts that may not not leave someone with enough time to take an unexpected visitor on a tour.

So, what the map will tell you is where the farms are so you can enjoy scenic drives.

What I find mind-boggling is that the map (see a segment of mine below) only indicates thoroughbred horse farms.

See all the little red horse head profiles? Just a segment of my Rand McNally EasyToFold Kentucky state map/Photo by Rhonda Lane

All those red spots? They represent thoroughbred farms. No quarter horse farms. No saddlebred farms. No walking horse farms. No lesson barns. No standardbred barns. No Anything Other Breed or Discipline That Happens to be in Kentucky farms. Just thoroughbred breeding farms.

Staggering, huh? And cool, too.

Stay tuned for more Kentucky tourist tips.

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Video showing Little Silver Charm enjoying his preferred sport – soccer

Remember the days when celebrities names were attached to golf tournaments?

What used to be the Bob Hope Desert Classic is now the Bob Hope Chrysler Classic. Near here, what once was the Sammy Davis Jr. Greater Hartford Open, is now the Travelers Championship.

But unless you were a pro golfer or had the deep pockets to play in the pro-am, regular folks couldn’t tee up in those famous tourneys.

However, in the upcoming Little Silver Charm Miniature Golf Tournament, anyone can play. Plus, you can celebrate the Grand Opening of Old Friends at Cabin Creek, the Bobby Frankel division of Old Friends. Read the rest of the article to see more.

Located in Greenfield Center, NY, just outside of Saratoga Springs, Old Friends at Cabin Creek is like Old Friends in Kentucky – a retirement center for race horses.

And a select few others lucky enough to get in. Like Little Silver Charm.

Here’s a bit of his story, in case you missed him in People magazine in 2008:

Video of Little Silver Charm on tour of the Old Friends Kentucky farm

Considering LSC’s demanding social schedule, his attendance at the tournament is doubtful.

However, his friend Michael Blowen, the founder of Old Friends and who you see in the video playing soccer with him, is scheduled to appear.

Still, celebrities abound. Jockeys and trainers are slated to participate. And the famous (or infamous?) Zippy Chippy, best known for losing 100 races, is already a resident at Cabin Creek.

The mini golf tourney is not the only part of the Grand Opening celebration. Check out all the activities, posted straight from the Old Friends newsletter, with permission, of course.

WHAT: Inaugural Little Silver Charm Miniature Golf Tournament
WHEN: THURSDAY, JULY 22nd from 11 AM – 2 PM EDT

WHERE: Murphy’s Driving Range , Rte 9, Saratoga Springs , NY
Come meet and play a friendly round of golf in foursomes with some of America ‘s best jockeys!  Currently on the slate to participate are Jean Cruget, who rode Seattle Slew to win the 1977 Triple Crown; three-time Kentucky Derby winner and Hall of Fame member Kent Desormeaux; two-time Derby winner, five-time Breeders’ Cup Classic winner and Hall of Famer Chris McCarron; and one of New York ‘s former leading riders Robbie Davis. More participants will be announced at a later date.  We will have a shotgun start with one foursome (each including one of our jockeys) per hole. Sign up for $20 per player by contacting the driving range, or call JoAnn Pepper at 518-698-2377

WHAT: Grand Opening of Old Friends at Cabin Creek Farm, The Bobby Frankel Division
WHEN: THURSDAY, JULY 22nd at 3 PM EDT
WHERE: Cabin Creek Farm, 483 Sand Hill Road, Greenfield Center, NY
Meet the retired thoroughbreds of Old Friend’s New York division, including Travers winner Thunder Rumble; stakes winners Watchem Smokey and New Export; America’s lovable loser Zippy Chippy; and the rest of the herd, Cool N Collective, Midnight Secret, Red Down South, Karakorum Patriot, Moonshadow Gold and Mr. Cowboy. Listen to their stories and get up close to these incredible athletes.
4 p.m.: Dedication ceremony.   Old Friends founder Michael Blowen and relatives of Hall of Fame trainer Bobby Frankel will be on hand to speak. Frankel, a multiple Eclipse Award winner as America ‘s leading trainer, passed away in November 2009.
Thoroughbred retirement was a cause dear to his heart, and this farm was named in his honor.
5:30 p.m.: Cookout & classic picnic dinner served at the farm.  Live unplugged music throughout the afternoon! Admission is free, but donations are always gratefully accepted!  Call JoAnn Pepper at 518-698-2377

WHAT: Open House at Cabin Creek Farm
WHEN: SATURDAY, JULY 24th from 12 PM – 3 PM EDT
WHERE: 483 Sand Hill Road, Greenfield Center , NY
Before heading out to the races (where the day’s feature will be the Grade I Coaching Club American Oaks), stop by and visit some
of our retirees.

WHAT: Cocktail Party and Silent Auction
WHEN: SATURDAY, JULY 24th from 7 PM – 9:30 PM EDT
WHERE: The Washington Inn, 111 South Broadway,
Saratoga Springs , NY
Tickets for the evening are $50 and are available by contacting JoAnn Pepper at 518-698-2377

Can’t get enough of those Old Friends? Here are some more articles I’ve written about the retirement center in Kentucky:

• Photos and captions for the “Weekend Road Trip” section of Lee Lofland’s “The Graveyard Shift”, a blog about police procedure for writers
• Goodbye, Ruhlmann, who was  fast, smart, curious and possibly carnivorous – but was a good boy for me.

Little Silver Charm fuels up for more soccer action/Photo by Rhonda Lane

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You can meet equine stars of the movies Hidalgo and the upcoming bio-pic Secretariat at the 2010 Northeast Equine Expo this weekend, May 29-30, at the historic Belmont Park.

In addition to a little brush with movie magic, you’ll be able to see programs and clinicians. You’ll be able to browse the trade show and on-site shops.

Check out the schedule for the Northeast Equine Expo to make more specific plans for this family-friendly event.

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Korean War Memorial/Photo by Rhonda Lane

The photos in this post were taken during the same trip but after the Hunt Country Stable Tour, so that’s about all this has to do with horses. We’re going off-topic briefly to offer what feels like a meager “thank you” to those who sacrificed so much.

Here is a photo essay from Memorial Day 2009 in Washington, DC.

World War II Memorial/Photo by Rhonda Lane

World War II Memorial/Photo by Rhonda Lane

World War II Memorial with Lincoln Memorial in distance/Photo by Rhonda Lane

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In the courtyard of Rokeby Farms on the Virginia Hunt Country Stable Tour/Photo by Rhonda Lane

The Virginia Hunt Country Stable Tour happens every Memorial Day weekend. If you can get to the Washington, DC, area, you might want to give this tour a whirl.

After my friend Sheryl and I took the tour, I wrote about where we went and what we saw. But I didn’t tell you how we got there nor about some of the “hacks” we discovered for getting around.

Until now.

We missed a lot

As you can see from this series of blog posts (listed below), we went to a lot of farms. We only visited about half of the stables that were open that weekend.

So, don’t think that just because you read my articles — and, thank you, if you have — that you don’t need to go. Some  different farms are on the stable tour this year, and some that were last year aren’t this year.

Leaving the driving to Amtrak

We needed access to a car because the stable tour is a self-guided driving tour. The obvious choice, when you live less than 300 miles away is to drive. However, we figured we’d get enough driving by taking the tour.

The road to Hunt Country runs past Dulles Airport, but we didn’t feel like slogging through airport inspections. Plus, I once compared how long it takes to fly to DC – when you include transport time to and from the airport with all the waiting around – flying down worked out to be the same amount of time as taking the train. Believe it or not.

So – we took Amtrak from New Haven, CT. We needed a car because, well, it’s a driving tour, so – as the commercial says – Enterprise picked us up at the Alexandria, VA, train station.

US 50 is the road from DC straight through Middleburg and Upperville and constitutes the main drag through horse country. I picked the closest hotel to the tour area on US 50, a Hampton Inn in Chantilly, just opposite the Dulles Airport fence.

Did we hear planes all night? Nope. And we had free continental breakfast. I will say that, for a Hampton Inn, the hotel breakfast room a bit cramped, probably due to then Memorial Day weekend crowds.

Travelers note: We booked our reservations in February for Memorial Day weekend.

The stable tour tickets

The Trinity Episcopal Church has been conducting this tour for 50 years now, so they’ve got it down to a science, including a set up for online ordering convenience.

But, if this is a last-minute trip, do not worry that you won’t get a ticket. You can can still buy tickets over the phone or at the church when you arrive. The tickets don’t sell out.

What I liked about buying ahead was that we received our tickets ahead of time. The back of the ticket had sort of a representational map of the layout of the farms as they relate to US 50.

Although I obsessively looked up all the farms and addresses for my portable navigation system for the car, Trinity Church has obvious blue signs set up at turnoff markers for each farm.

Travelers note: If you can, order your ticket online so you can have the map on the back in hand so you can get your bearings.

Food

In Chantilly, we stayed in a highly commercial area. Chain restaurants and “box stores” abounded.

We did make a discovery of a small local chain that we loved. Anita’s offered fresh Mexican food with a New Mexico flair for an economical price.

During the tour itself, food was available in a few places. Keep in mind that you won’t find any chain restaurants along the tour. Food was said to be available at the country fair at Trinity church in Upperville, except the church was one of the stops we didn’t make.

So, we ended up eating mostly in Middleburg at the Red Horse Tavern right on US 50. We liked the food. We liked the patio. We could walk up and sit down. We also liked the Derby pie.

We also stopped at the Hunters Head Tavern in Upperville but were turned away because we didn’t have reservations. So …

Travelers note: If you have your heart set on eating at Hunters Head Tavern, be sure to make reservations.

Another food note. If you recall from my previous post, Rokeby had varieties of their farm-made cheese for sale. We entertained the notion of shopping for a cooler with ice to buy cheese to eat back at the hotel.

Travelers note: If you think you might want to buy cheese at Rokeby, bring a cooler with lots of ice …

Because it can get hot.

Comfort

Late May in Virginia can be muggy. Temperatures of 80 degrees may sound lovely and tolerable until you realize that the air feels stiff, and sweat is oozing through your clothes.

Dress for comfort. Wear sunscreen. Take lots of water. Keep in mind that there are no convenience stores, let alone fast-food drive-thrus, along US 50 between Middleburg and Upperville.

Rolling Thunder

We saw it more as a feature, not a problem. The throaty rumble of big road bikes like Harley-Davidsons added a welcome edge to the nearly t00-too Ralph Lauren-atmosphere of Middleburg.

Because, especially on a sunny Saturday on Memorial Day weekend, Middleburg is “Sturgis lite.” Rolling Thunder, the motorcycle salute to veterans, is in the area. Saturday is the day everyone gets into town to prepare for Sunday’s ride into Washington.

The Red Horse Tavern is a great place for motorcyclists because they can park their bikes out front and eat on the patio within a few yards of their rides.

When folks ride together in a group, the noise can be intense, especially on the patio at the Red Horse, which is right on the sidewalk.  However, when you were on the farms which were often considerable distances from US 50, you heard no road noise whatsoever.

Amtrak home

We reversed our journey – drop the car at the Alexandria Enterprise office, and they took us to the train station.

We stayed an extra day with the idea that we might beat the crowd and enjoy Memorial Day in Washington, D.C. Other people had the same idea, including on the return trip back.

Our trip down from Connecticut had been everything I love about Amtrak – comfortable, quiet and  clean.

The trip back after the busy holiday weekend was almost everything bad I’d heard about Amtrak – late, slow, crowded and smelly.

If I had it to do over again, I’d stay another day to give Amtrak a chance to clean up and air out the train. Yes – it was that bad. And I’ve traveled Amtrak up from DC on busy weekends before.

Or I would just brace myself for a 300-mile drive from home.

Travelers note: Enterprise’s ability to pick us up at the train station was excellent, but we were at the mercy of their office hours, which excluded much of the weekend.

Why go on the Stable Tour if you’re not horsey?

Actually, the Hunt Country Stable Tour makes for a great “girlfriend getaway” weekend for those bored with the beach or too broke for a shopping trip, let alone a long group weekend at a spa.

The stable tours are more like house tours. Architecture buffs will enjoy the designs and layouts of the barns. Gardeners will enjoy the flowers that enhance the entry ways. And some of the stables are decorated with carpets in the tack room and chandeliers in the aisles.

The motorcycles roaring through town could be a plus, if you find motorcycles intriguing. Or, if you’re earnestly trying to converse, they can be an interruption.

Some of the animals on the tours are pettable, but not all are. Many were athletes in training.  Rokeby’s visiting beagles wanted to play with every human who smiled at them. Barn cats scowled at or ignored all visitors. Nosey Shires at Ayrshire peered out the back windows of their stalls for nose rubs and photo ops.

You never know what the petting situation is until you arrive at that particular farm. Usually, the church has several volunteers at each stop to help with questions.

For tickets and more information about the tour, check the tour’s website.

Psyched up and looking for more about the Virginia trip?

• Open wide for the equine dentist, “ahh” over the baby alpaca and check out the indoor equine pool
• Happy hounds, fiddling around with the Civil War and cheese
• Watching horses swim in a pond and a visit to a recently deceased champion’s home
• Rare draft horses, including a new baby, and polo from the cheap seats

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From our seats up above, we watched four rings of action/Photo by Rhonda Lane

Hey – what’s this dog show post doing on our horse blog???

Because people who love horses often love other animals, too? Don’t worry. I won’t interrupt our cherished equi-centric programming for long. Or for very often.

Anyway, if you’ve watched the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show on TV, you’ve probably wondered what attending would be like.

And, if you’re like I was, you’d probably be amazed to find out that, during the day, you can get as close to the action as this:

Shih Tzu's pose in the Westminster show ring with their handlers/Photo by Rhonda Lane

Let alone roam through the benching area, sort of like the dog show’s “backside.”

Last year my travel buddy Sheryl, who went with me to Virginia and Saratoga, took me to the dogs.

Nice to have reserved seats

Shih Tzus on deck, awaiting their gate call/Photo by Rhonda Lane

Although we spent little time sitting in them, we bought reserved seats. Had our schedules permitted, we could have stayed all day for the evening competitions, too.

For breeds in which we were particularly interested, we went down to the floor to stand at ringside.

Because my only exposure to dog shows until then had been action-oriented events, like obedience competitions and lure coursing, I had only seen conformation shows on TV.

So I had never known that spectators could stand next to the ring to watch. After all, my favorite spot to watch horse shows or races is along the rail.

But my second favorite place is back in the barns. Or, in dog show parlance, the benching area.

In the benching area

Backstage at the big dog show is as crowded as the Churchill Downs rose garden and paddock area on Kentucky Derby day. At least, at Westminster, you can get up close to the competitors.

See the crowd milling behind the chihuahuas? I was in a thick group just like it in front of them./Photo by Rhonda Lane

Not only are you close, but you’re shoulder-to-shoulder, almost worthy of Soylent Green, 1973 movie about overpopulation. Just like Charlton Heston’s character in the movie, you feel carried along by the crowd as you walk among the dog crates and benches.

The lady petting the chihuahuas to the left seemed to know the lady sitting by their booth, so that’s why she enjoys the privilege of petting the dogs.

Keeping one’s hands to oneself is probably the best policy for spectators passing through, especially considering the dogs don’t know you, might be under stress — even though they seemed less stressed than I did — and that the dog show happens in the height (depth?) of cold and flu season.

A yellow Labrador retriever waits inside his crate until his class is called.

If you can’t stand it and must greet a friendly dog, please be sure to ask its human for permission to do so.

Also, when you’re dressing to attend the dog show and plan to spend some time exploring the benching area, keep in mind that you’ll be wearing your winter coat. With all the human and canine bodies in the low-ceilinged benching area, the temperature can feel a bit stiff.

Some dogs have fans attached to their crates so they can be comfortable. If you want your own fan to carry, you know what to do. Take your own.

The noise is chaotic. If I were a dog, I’d be freaked. But they seem remarkably ho-hum about it. When you’re a dog competing at Westminster, I suppose guess you’re used to attention and commotion around you.

Guys from the then yet-to-air National Geographic channel series "Rescue Ink" were there. His tee shirt says "Abusers Are Losers."/Photo by Rhonda Lane

Among the crowd rumble, you’ll hear shouts like, “Dog coming through,” as a handler leads a dog through the main corridors.

Representatives of a New York-based rescue about to be shown in a National Geographic channel series looked ominous amongh the benches. The guys from Rescue Ink escorted a big dog that I tried to photograph, except the crowd was just too thick around them. (For more information about Rescue Ink, check their website.)

What I’ll do if I go again?

Go across Seventh Avenue from Madison Square Garden to the Hotel Pennsylvania to  walk around the lobby. While Sheryl and I were walking up to the Garden from Grand Central, we saw competitors transporting their dogs across the street to the arena.

The Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show is held in February. In 2010, the show will be held on Feb. 15 and 16.

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So, you probably won’t need a house. You’ll probably be looking for a hotel.

If you’re on a budget, you may want to consider driving to what could be called “the outer boroughs” for lodging.

And you may not want to overlook hotels I call “the Mom & Pops.”

Outside the office of one of my favorite central KY hotels/Photo by Rhonda Lane

After all, you just want a place to sleep anyway. And, FWIW, you just might find some overlooked jewels.

Stay outside Lexington

Staying close to the venue in Lexington will, no doubt, cost you. After all, Louisville hoteliers charge premium rates for stays during the Kentucky Derby.

That’s why, although I love Lexington, I don’t necessarily stay there. It’s not exactly economical to begin with. Add in the world-class event? Ca-ching. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, because people do have a right to make a living.

But you have a right to keep some of your money, too.

How far away?

If you want to economize, get used to the idea that you will have to do some driving. Keep in mind that Louisville, Cincinnati and Somerset are all about an 1-1/2 drive from Lexington.

That leaves plenty of little towns with lodging in between.They all have motels, although maybe not full-service hotels. Beside, if you’re going to the games, you just want a place to sleep anyway.

Will these small-town hotels jack up their prices? To a certain extent, probably. But they’ll still charge less than Lexington-area hotels.

So, get a map of Kentucky and look around. I know people who travel two hours each way to commute to work every day. You can deal with a commute to attend a world-class event.

Now, you’ve got some research to do.

Do your homework

Start with the area’s chamber of commerce or department of tourism. Or just run the dates you plan to go on Kayak.com. Just keep in mind that not all hotels are listed with Kayak, especially if you’re going down the food chain like we are.

Speaking of food, if you like a bit of wine with your dinner or a cocktail to celebrate, be sure to check to see if the town you have chosen is wet or dry.

Find a likely prospect and then do a search for a website. The photos will tell you a lot. Many places can’t afford an architectural photographer who knows all the tricks.

But I will tell you that if the room has been photographed with a wide-angle lens, it will look larger. How to determine that, if you know nothing about photography? If objects in the foreground look large, the photo was shot with a wide-angle lens.

If so, then all is not lost. Do another search for guest reviews of a place. Especially check Trip Advisor for guest reviews.

If you don’t see a review, don’t think a place is not worth the effort.

But do gather as much information as possible, especially about features and amenities that the hotel has to offer.

Or not. At this level, you may not get many amenities besides a clean room.

Decide what you can live without

We all want clean rooms, air-conditioning and private baths. The rest is up for grabs. (Or maybe you’re okay with sharing a bath. Or you dislike AC.)

Do you need a fridge and a microwave in the room? Or a hotel with a business center?

But if you need Internet access, find out what that entails at the hotel in question.

Naomi of IttyBiz (if you’re one of my child readers or easily offended, you may be better off not clicking on the link because of that author’s salty language) found out the hard way about this one, when she realized that the B&B where she’d be staying did not have private Internet access.

Also keep in mind that those little towns between the cities are often rural towns. They may not have broadband Internet or WiFi yet. And, despite the standing joke that there’s a Starbucks on every corner, you won’t find that in small Kentucky towns.

If you’re flying in, you’ll need to be able to print your boarding passes for your return trip.  The hotel desk clerk may be able to do that on for you on the hotel’s computer.

Or come up with a Plan B. I have used public library computers to keep in touch. Just clear the browser cookies and history afterward and be aware of the library’s schedules and hours.

Or – here’s a revolutionary thought – you could give up your connectivity for a week and have a real vacation.

The choice is yours.

One of my faves

I hesitate to write about this. You know how those “best-kept secrets” get blabbed about, and then you can’t get a table. Or a room. That’s how I feel about this place.

I’d been going into Harrodsburg, about half an hour from Lexington, for horse shows and had been looking for a place to stay convenient to the fairgrounds. My usual hotel was behind a DQ, so I wanted to be closer to, well, healthier food.

I had previously avoided staying at the Bright Leaf Golf Resort because I simply don’t play golf.

While planning my last trip, I checked out the golf resort’s website. Sure enough, they do rent rooms without the golf package. They have a restaurant and a gym on the premises. (The “gym” at my old hotel was a walk through a nearby industrial park.)

The restaurant was great for breakfast. I usually sat at a table overlooking the first tee.

I have the impression that the rooms vary. My room was in the front motel-like area facing the US highway. With the AC on, it was quiet. Yes, the decor was dated, kind of early ’80s, but I was rarely in the room.

I did enjoy the convenience of a room fridge and microwave. The bed was comfortable, even though I tend to have a sensitive back. The pool wasn’t open in early May, but every evening, gas grills magically appeared around the pool so that guests could cook their own, if they wanted.

A note about Bright Leaf

Many women traveling along might find this odd, so I’ll mention it. Except for the women on the service staff, who first thought I was odd for traveling solo, this was a largely male environment.

Bright Leaf seems to be a big “buddy trip” destination. I kept my ears open and heard a lot of buzz around the complex about what an economical deal it was. Yet, it was quiet.

More women showed up toward the weekend, so I didn’t look so out-of-place. (I’ve worked in male-dominated careers over the years, so it’s no big deal to me.) Plus, the women servers started anticipating my breakfast order and bringing me eggs and toast the way I’d been ordering it.

So, the service and staff are friendly and eager to help. And the rooms were a bargain.

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